Previous Gina McMurtrey Interiors Blog Posts
Posts Tagged ‘craft solutions’
Have you been looking for a simple way to spice up your bedroom? Would you like to add a more casual elegant touch? Why not try this! Kate from Censational Girl comes up with so many great DIY ideas and allowed us to repost this here! Thanks, Kate!
Here’s the step by step on how she created this casual look for a fabric-covered headboard. For more detailed photo illustrations, please visit her post here.
- 1/2 inch plywood, cut at the home improvement store to your bed’s specifications for width and height
- 2 inch foam to cover plywood
- Upholstery fabric
- 1.5 inch finish nails
- ‘D’ ring hooks
- Button cover kits (Plastic is better, because the metal ones are flimsy)
- Embroidery or upholstery thread
- Decorator needles.
- Jigsaw (if your design is not square)
- Drill and drill bit
- Staple gun and staples
- Sawhorses (if available, for convenience)
Step One (optional): If you want to add curves to your headboard, create a template and mark it on your plywood. You can use simple paper, then mark it with a pen. Cut out your design with a jigsaw.
Step Two: Mark your holes where you want your buttons to go. These were spaced ten inches apart. For more drama, mark for buttons spaced closer together. Use a drill and drill bit (between 7/32 to 5/16) to drill holes where indicated. Make sure you have a clean hole all the way through on both sides.
Step Three: Cut your foam to the size of your plywood. Choose 2” foam squares since it was more cost effective than paying for 2” foam by the yard. You can use 1” if you don’t want it to be thick. (Tip: If using squares, I think it helps to turn your foam flat side out to guarantee a smoother edge around the sides. Thicker foam with the flat side out gives it a very smooth edge.)
Step Four: Use your batting to secure your foam to your plywood with a staple gun. It is not necessary to use spray glue if you are using a good batting.
Step Five: Attach your fabric to your headboard using a staple gun. For this smaller degree of curvature, I was able to get away without sewing a slipcover with seams. For these specific cutouts, start in the middle of the curve, secure with single staple, then slowly work your way out. Then secure your fabric on all four sides. Use the natural corners to pinch fabric and create and attractive edge by overlapping the fabric. Secure with staples.
Step Six – Tufting: Use button cover kits to create fabric covered buttons. Thread your decorator needle with embroidery or upholstery thread. Use Plastic button kits rather than the metal ones if you have a thicker fabric. The metal ones will bend. Push your threaded needle up through the pre-drilled hole, leaving plenty of thread underneath. Then attach your button to your thread. I recommend running your thread through the button twice to get a really secure button.
Push your needle back down through your fabric and foam and pull needle out on other side of pre-drilled hole. Pull your thread taught, then twist it around a finish nail to hold it in place against the plywood. Staple thread to plywood, and criss cross across several times and staple again. Repeat for all buttons and holes in headboard.
Locate the wall studs on your wall, then determine placement of ‘D’ ring hooks. Drive nails into studs, secure ‘D’ ring hooks to back of headboard, then hang on wall.
In addition to being a great idea for your own room, consider this as an alternative for expensive furniture in vacation homes, furnished rentals, or staged homes!
If you are looking to redecorate a lake home or are getting ready to sell your home, consider eDECORATING–the affordable online decorating plan that allows you to control your timing & budget, yet provides a comprehensive road map to create a stylish and well-thought-out space!
Have you wanted to buy a large canvas image, but the expense turned you away? Well, here is an alternative and for about $18 so how can you resist? Mandy from Sugar Bee Crafts came up with this to dress up her daughter’s bedroom. How creative!
- Flash drive for Photo
- Foam Board (Home Depot/ or Lowes- approx. $11 but you can make 2 out of it!)
- Spray glue
- Utility knife
- Craft paint (whatever color you would like on the sides)
- Duct Tape
- Wire (or whatever you want to use to hang your Giant photo)
First, select the image you would like to use and put it onto a Flash drive. Next take it to an Office Store (Office Max/ Office Depot) and ask them for the “Engineer Print” and hand over your Flash Drive. The downside is that you can only get the image printed in Black and White. It is about $8 for a 4ft x 3 ft Image. They will inform you that it will not be Photo quality, but the image doesn’t turn out pixilated.
Once you have the print in hand place it on the foam board and cut the board to size.
Next, use the craft paint in whatever color you selected to paint the outside and edges of the Foam Piece.
Wait for the paint to dry and grab a buddy for this next step.
Spray Glue the foam piece. Be generous but don’t soak it. Have your buddy hold 2 corners and you hold the other, and then slowly lower the image onto the foam piece working out any bubbles and pressing evenly into place.
TIPS: Don’t SPRAYPAINT Styrofoam! It will eat it! Use craft paint and peel back any clear film so that the paint will work properly.
Don’t use MOD PODGE for flimsy paper! It will wrinkle the paper because it is too wet. The more you try to work out the wrinkles the worse they get.
Hanging: You can Duct tape wire to the back for hanging or be creative and find a different way. It isn’t pretty but no one will see it.
AND there you have it. For about $18 you can create a FABULOUS wall hanging that makes a statement!
(Craft concept & photos: www.sugarbeecrafts.com. She has some really fun stuff on there! Check it out!)
If you’ve been following my Facebook page (and if you haven’t, I invite you now), you’d know that I’ve been in the process of renovating my office over the past few months. As I went back-and-forth over my built-in cabinetry design and window treatment fabric, one thing never changed — I was going to use a 112-year-old tool chest that was hand-made by my great-grandfather for the sitting area coffee table.
This chest was not in the best shape to say the least. There were years of grime, dust and metal corrosion that comes with something that is used for purely utilitarian purposes. My mom and husband thought I was crazy…I mean, the room is contemporary! And this old piece of junk just didn’t seem to fit. Yet, I knew it would be amazing, so after way too long (especially considering how easy it was), I finally cleaned it up and made it the unique and sentimental furniture piece that is frankly perfect.
Oh, on a side note: Did you know that spiders do not hibernate in winter? I didn’t either, but was unpleasantly made aware during this process…
Next, after doing several Google searches and finding that several people sang the praises of Endust (this is not a paid product endorsement), I thoroughly saturated the wood with the furniture polish. The wood was very dry after many neglected years, but the color perked right up with a good coat. I had to scrub to get rid of all traces of the afore-mentioned spiders. <shudder!> I also sprayed the rusted metal hinges and latch to keep the rust from flaking off.
What I actually found when researching the best way to refurbish this chest is that Endust was good for polishing metal. Who knew? I sprayed the tin top liberally and then used a drill-powered buffer to slowly work my way across the top. What emerged from under the dry, powdery metal was more than I could have hoped for! The metal polished down to an awesome grey-blue with remnants of gold, white and red paint from projects generations ago. This will match my office so great! I let that dry and then applied a coat of Turtle Wax to seal it.
Someone had reinforced the bottom of the chest in recent years (BTW: that is a future project–painting them to match the rest of the chest). I added large industrial casters to the base. Two are locking so the coffee tables doesn’t go rolling across the room when I kick my feet up with my coffee and trade magazines.
Just a little history:
The Moore-Shafer Shoe Company was based in Brockport, NY from the late 1800′s and closed in 1927. I have no idea how my great-grandfather, who never lived in NY, acquired the trunk.